The Glacier Express is one of the oldest and most spectacular train rides across the Swiss Alps. The 8 hour journey takes you from Zermatt to St. Moritz (or vice versa!), while passing through valleys, gorges and over mountain passes. Keep reading to find out everything you need to know about the Glacier Express if you’re interested to embark on this journey yourself!
Before we get too much into the practical stuff, let’s first zoom out and start from the beginning.
what is the glacier express?
The Glacier Express is a panoramic train that runs from Zermatt to St. Moritz (or vice versa). These two destinations in itself are already worth visiting, with the Matterhorn in Zermatt being one of the most photographed mountains worldwide, and St. Moritz being one of the playgrounds of the rich and famous.
“The journey is the destination”
The Glacier Express additionally highlights the beauty of the Swiss alps in between. For those of you who are familiar with Swiss geography, the route passes through three different Swiss cantons: Valais, Uri and Graubünden. The journey takes approx. 8 hours and is 291 km long. To get to your final destination, you will pass over 290 bridges and go through 91 tunnels. The train reaches a maximum elevation of 2’033 m at the Oberalp Pass and a low of 585 m close to Chur. Apparently the Glacier Express is the “slowest express train in the world”. This is of course quite the paradox, but it refers to the fact that the train connects the destinations without having to change trains in between!
As mentioned above, the Glacier Express is a panoramic train. The train wagons have huge windows on all sides and even part of the roof is made of glass. You can really get an (almost) 260 degrees experience of the surroundings during the journey. In my opinion, the train is a tourist attraction and should not be used if you’re solely looking for a way to get from A to B. It is much slower than the regular public transport, and you’ll be travelling with other tourists 🙂
Something you need to know about the Glacier Express is that there are different classes (2nd Class, 1st Class and the most luxurious Excellence Class). I’ll go more into detail regarding this differentiation later in the post. The train additionally has a panorama bar wagon and an on board restaurant is available to order food and beverage.
You should look at the Glacier Express as an experience, not a means of transportation.
should i start in Zermatt or st. moritz?
It is important to know about the Glacier Express that there is one train per day departing from either side of the route. That means, you can either start your journey on the Glacier Express in Zermatt or in St. Moritz. If you’re planning to do a day trip, I would recommend to start in Zermatt and end in St. Moritz. Here’s why.
the landwasserviadukt
One of the most spectacular sights, the UNESCO heritage Landwasserviadukt, is located very close to St. Moritz. While the journey is stunning and there’s plenty to see, 8 hours aboard a train is still quite a long time. In my personal opinion, the thought that the highlight is yet to come kind of kept me on my toes the whole time and made the journey more exciting. Additionally, coming from Zermatt, you get a longer view on the viaduct and it will first pop up in your direction of travel. If you’re coming from St. Moritz, you’ll see the viaduct in its full glory only after you’ve already passed it and you’ll be looking back at it.
possibility to embark on the train in brig instead of zermatt
Another thing to consider, is how you will reach the starting point. If you’re planning to only do a day trip (without sleeping in either St. Moritz or Zermatt at the beginning or end), you might need to start in Brig. That’s right, depending from where you’re coming from, during the winter months, the timetable doesn’t allow you to reach Zermatt early enough to catch the Glacier Express. In this case you’ll get on the train at the first stop, which is Brig. I personally think you won’t be missing out on much (assuming you’ve been to Zermatt before, otherwise definitely visit Zermatt!!), since the more “interesting” part of the journey starts after Brig anyway.
To conclude, the views of the viaduct and the possibility to get in at Brig are the two reasons why I would choose the Zermatt-St. Moritz over the other. If these things don’t impact your planning, then you can really choose either direction – you won’t be disappointed!
on which side of the train should i sit?
I want to be honest with you first: You need to know that on the Glacier Express you can’t officially choose which side of the ride you want to sit when booking your side. You won’t know which side your seats are facing until you get to the train and find out. However, I do still want to tackle this topic just in case there are some free seats or someone wants to switch, etc…
from zermatt: better views from the right side
If you’re starting in Zermatt, the more interesting side overall is the right side (from the direction of travel). However, and this is very important, the train changes directions after the stop in Chur. That means, if you were travelling looking forwards on the right side up until Chur, from then on you will be travelling backwards on the right side.
The world heritage viaduct will be best visible from the right side of the train (direction of travel from Zermatt-St. Moritz), and you’ll get the most of the view if you’re travelling forwards, of course!
So, if you’re main purpose is to get the best views of the viaduct, you should be riding backwards the first leg of the journey! But, personally I would not recommend this, since the whole journey is worth seeing and you’ll get better views riding forwards!
from st. moritz: better views from the left side
If you’re starting in St. Moritz, just do the exact opposite of what I just described above! From that direction, you’ll have better views from the left side 🙂
But don’t worry if you’re not on the “better” side or if you don’t have a window seat! You can see all the scenery from anywhere. Additionally, you can move around freely most of the time, that means you can get up and find a better spot (for taking pictures for example) if you don’t like your seat. Just don’t over-do the standing and moving around.
what should i bring?
Here is a list of things that I think will make your train ride even more enjoyable:
1. snacks
In my opinion, the most important thing on this list!!! 😀 No but really, as I’ve mentioned many times by now, you’ll be on the train the whole day. While there is a restaurant on board, you might not want to be ordering “real” food all the time. If you’re anything like me you’ll just be feeling snakish all the time, not necessarily hungry. I’d recommend to get some chips, cookies, chocolate, or whatever snacks you like beforehand from a local supermarket. For a true Swiss experience, go for some Toblerone, Ovomaltine chocolate or Wernli cookies. But you have all the flexibility in the world here of course 🙂
2. a book
…or any form of entertainment of your choice! Personally, my boyfriend and I did not end up using our kindle during the journey. But we saw many of the other passengers that took out their books or iPads at different sections along the way. It’s good to have some entertainment in case you get bored.
3. a polarizing filter for your camera
As beautiful as the full length windows are in the train, you need to know that the Glacier Express windows are TERRIBLE for taking pictures. It’s almost impossible to get rid of the reflection all together, but I’ve heard that a gadget like this can help reduce the annoying reflection.
4. wear Layers
Once again, as beautiful as the wide windows are, if you’re taking the train on a beautiful, sunny day, chances are you’re going to get quite hot as the day progresses. That’s why I would recommend to come in layers, which you can take off or put back on as you need to.
5.sunglasses
Another important one relating to the windows! No matter whether you’re doing the journey in summer or winter, you’re going to be glad to have them!
what kind of ticket do i need and how much DOES IT COST?
There are several things that you need to know about the Glacier Express before you start your trip. As with many tourist attractions nowadays, you can’t just show up on the spot and get in the train. No no, here is what you need to do in advance!
reserve your tickets in advance!
First, you must reserve your tickets in advance. As I’ve mentioned, there are three different classes on the Glacier Express: Excellence Class, 1st Class and 2nd Class. Find below a summary of the prices for each category:
what you need to know about the different classes
the excellence class
You need to know that the Excellence Class is the only Class on the Glacier Express that guarantees a window seat for EVERY passenger. Additionally, you’ll get a 5-course meal by your seat and you’ll receive a welcome drink. During the ride you can enjoy complementary coffee, juice and soft drinks. In between, you can also expect some snacks and afternoon tea.
the 1st class
This section of the train has a 4-people section on one side of the wagon, and a 2 people section on the other. Overall, there are less people per wagon in the 1st Class compared to the 2nd Class. If you’re travelling as a couple you might have some more privacy if you choose the 2 people section. If you choose to have lunch, the waiters will serve you at your seat.
the 2nd class
Second class is the most basic class, but still very comfortable! The seats are exactly the same as in the 1st Class, except that you have slightly more seats per wagon in this case! Each seating section seats 4, which means that you’re still never farther than 1 seat from the window. You can order from the same restaurant as the first class and you will also get your meal at your seat.
don’t forget to make a seat reservation, too!
Unless you’re travelling in the Excellence Class, additionally to your ticket you will need to make a seat reservation. The seat reservation has the same price whether you’re travelling 1st or 2nd class. The price depends on whether you are travelling in the high season or low season. Check out the table below to find out how much the reservation costs throughout the year:
additional info for swiss people
If you’re from Switzerland, you need to know these important things about the Glacier Express tickets:
- In case you have the GA, lucky you! The whole railway network of the Rhätische Bahn (of which the Glacier Express is also part) can be used “for free” with the GA! This means, you don’t need to buy an additional ticket for the Glacier Express. However, you still must reserve a seat.
- If you have a Swiss Halbtax, you will pay half the price mentioned above. That means, the Halbtax is valid just as on any other train ride!
- Since the regular GA is valid, that means that also the Gemeinde Tageskarten are valid. These Tageskarten usually cost between 30 and 55 CHF, which is still significantly cheaper than all the original Glacier Express prices shown above! If you decide to use this option, make sure to book the card and the seat reservation both at once, since both only have a limited availability and are tied to a specific day. It would be a shame if you have the seat reservation and can’t get a Tageskarte anymore!!
Additional info for foreign tourists
As a tourist, I’ve heard you can get on the Glacier Express as part of the Eurail pass or the Swiss Travel Pass. If you’re travelling through Europe through an extended period of time, definitely check these two options out! Find out more about Eurail and the Swiss Travel Pass by clicking on the respective link.
is there food on the glacier expresS?
For many the food on board is an essential part of the whole experience. But let’s start from the beginning. To clarify, everything I outline in this section only applies to 1st and 2nd Class, not the Excellence Class.
order your food in advance
When you’re making your seat & ticket reservation online, you will directly be asked whether you want to order a meal for the journey. While you don’t need to decide on the spot, if you want to dine on beard it is recommended to order in advance. The reason for this is so they can better plan ahead. If you don’t order in advance, you can always order a la Carte from the restaurant on the spot. However, do keep in mind that on the website they warn you that in this case they cannot guarantee the availability of all meals. So if you’re rather picky about your food, better order in advance.
If you’ve ordered in advance, you’ll find that the table is already set for lunch upon entering the train in the morning. The lunch service lasts between 11:00 am and 1-2 pm. You have to be patient with the personnel, and be prepared to wait a while until you get your food. It’s possible that some people in your wagon get served up to an hour before they reach your table! If you’re ordering a la carte, the restaurant is open to take orders up until roughly 3 pm, after that the service is done!
In order to give you an idea of what the food is like price wise, see some examples below:
- Two course daily menu (either entrée+main or main+dessert): 39 CHF (excl. drinks)
- Hörnli mit Ghacktem (Pasta with meat sauce): ca. 28 CHF
- Bottle of beer: ca. 7 CHF
- Coffee: ca. 5 CHF
you can also bring a picknick lunch
Because my boyfriend and I are both students and recent graduates, we weren’t able and willing to splurge on food as well. Instead, you need to know that on the Glacier Express it is also ok to bring a picknick lunch! This is allowed and quite common with younger traveller and families. You can bring part of your lunch and order drinks from the restaurant, you can eat from the restaurant and bring your own drinks – the Glacier Express is 100% flexible in this regard! That’s why we personally brought some bread, some traditional cut meats, Swiss cheese (basically made our own little charcuterie board), and then ordered some hot beverages and a beer on the train to still support the restaurant at least a little bit! But this is totally up to you how you want to organise yourself!
Lastly, if you’re travelling in summer, there is a bar wagon, where you can get some drinks! This is also the only place on the train where you can open the windows slightly. This is the place to get some reflection free pictures!
what will i see along the way?
zermatt
Ah Zermatt, the home of the world-famous Matterhorn! Zermatt is a lovely car-free, traditional village located at 1’608 m altitude.
brig
Brig is a small historic town at the foot of the famous Simplon Pass. The town is an ideal starting point for further excursions in the region. On the way from Brig to Andermatt the Glacier Express passes through the Rhone Valley and through the Furka Tunnel.
andermatt
Andermatt is another cute and quaint mountain village. It is a popular ski destination in winter. The whole valley is also very popular for cross-country skiing, and on a nice winter day you’ll see many people along the train’s route engaging in this sport. After Andermatt you will start the ascent to the highest point of the route, the Oberalpass at 2’033 m.
disentis
After reaching the highest point, you’ll start descending back down. The next stop is Disentis, which is also a popular skiing town. Additionally, it is home to one of the oldest Benedictine monasteries in Switzerland. You’ll see the impressive building from your train window!
chur
Your journey continues along the rhine gorge (also called the Grand Canyon of Switzerland!), with its steep cliffs surrounding you! The next stop is Chur, which some consider the oldest town in Switzerland. This is also the lowest point of the whole journey at only 585 m. In Chur the direction of the train changes, if you’ve been riding forwards until now, you’ll now be riding backwards!
tiefencastel
Next up is Tiefencastel. The town has gained some popularity because it is located at the Albula railway line, which is a UNESCO world heritage! Attention: The famous Landwasserviadukt is located between the stops Tiefencastel and Filisur, so keep your eyes open between these two stops!!! If you’re coming from Zermatt, the landmark will be coming up on the right hand side. This section was definitely my personal highlight!
filisur
The section between Filisur and St. Moritz is the most windy and curvy part of the whole Albula / Glacier Express journey. To think that all of this infrastructure is over 100 years old is truly mind-blowing!
st. moritz
You’ve made it, you are at your final destination: St. Moritz! St. Moritz is the luxury alpine resort town in Switzerland. Depending on when you visit, you might encounter different events on the frozen lake, such as polo, cricket and even horse racing on ice.
should i go on the glacier express in summer or winter?
Both options are stunning for different reasons! In the winter you’ll get to experience a snowy white winter wonderland. No matter how snowy or cold it is outside, you will be all cozy and comfortable inside the train. It’s also good to know that the Glacier Express runs in (almost) all weather conditions.
During the summer, you’ll come across lush summer meadows and the contrast between the green fields and the rocky, grey mountains will be even stronger.
However, personally I would recommend the winter route. I have one main argument for this: The journey is 8 hours long. This is the amount of time you will most likely be spending inside the train, mostly on your seat. If you want to explore the Swiss mountains during summer, I would much rather recommend you to go hiking somewhere! In the winter, many hiking routes you’ll be passing are closed and/or inaccessible. Because of this, if you have the choice, I think a journey like this is more suited for winter rather than for summer.
should i do the whole journey in one day?
This really depends on what your available time frame is and what you expect to get out of the trip. If you just want to see the scenery and are intrigued by the whole experience, then one day is really enough. I personally did everything in one day and I am perfectly happy with this decision looking back. But then again, I live in Switzerland permanently and I can come back to the region at any time.
You need to know that the Glacier Express passes through some really nice mountain villages, and the nature is perfect for skiing, sledding or snow-shoeing in the winter. In the summer you could go on so many hike or visit some great mountain lakes! With that being said, if you have the time to explore the area more in depth, it’s definitely worth to stop along the way and do the journey during multiple days. But if you’re short on time and/or you know you’ll be coming back anyway, then doing the whole tour in one go is great! It’s a very long drive, but totally doable and doesn’t feel as long as it actually is 🙂
is the glacier express worth it?
In case you don’t know, I am Swiss and I live in Switzerland. I’ve been to the region on holiday before and I am lucky enough to see the Alps many times throughout the year. Yet I was still intrigued by this journey. I finally decided to do the trip this year and I personally wasn’t disappointed. It’s a nice way to spend a cold winter day, and I was travelling with my boyfriend which gave us a long, slow day to catch up and just spend time together. It kind of felt like a “reset” day. You get to be lazy but it doesn’t feel that way, because you are still experiencing new things.
But would I recommend it? I’d say it depends. If you’re from Switzerland or you’ve already been to Switzerland before, I’d definitely say yes! It’s a nice experience and you’ll definitely enjoy it. But if you’re visiting Switzerland for the first time, I think there are more exciting ways to experience the country. Whether you’re here in summer or winter, I think nature is best explored by being in nature. If you can, I’d recommend to choose a more active way to explore the Alps. Go hiking, go sledding, skiing, walking… whatever you want, just be more involved in nature!
are there any alternatives to the glacier express?
You need to know that instead of taking the Glacier Express, the same route can be done via local public transport. The local public transport (RhB) will take you along the exact same route, but does not require prior reservation of seats nor advance ticket purchases.
Just beware, that these trains don’t have a restaurant wagon and no panoramic windows. Additionally, if one of the trains is delayed, your connection is not guaranteed. Nevertheless, in case you are rather interested in a “hop on hop off” kind of itinerary and want to explore the same region, this might be an even better option for you!
There you go, I hope to have provided you with some solid information to decide for yourself whether you want to embark on this unique journey or not! If you’ve done this trip before, let me know what YOUR highlight have been! I’d love to chat <3